Friday, April 20, 2012

Settling in to paradise... Aug 8, 2005

August 8, 2005

So it's been a while since I've been able to make a journal entry, not for lack of trying...Im in the technology hell realm.

They say elephants when they are about to die, find their way across miles and miles of jungle terraine to their traditional dying grounds...well it appears computers do the same thing.

Ever wondered what happened to your 1989 IBM? It's here, wheezing it's last breath.

I haven't been able to log onto hotmail for 1 week (probably longer by the time you get this email...)

So much has happened, Im not sure where to begin. I arrived in Colombo, it was everything I had hoped it wasn't. A spralling congested hassle. I later found out they've stopped teaching marshall arts in Sri Lanka because in Colombo a highly trained hitman could be hired for about US$ 20-25 dollars. Death comes cheap here.

So after one day I made the fortunate decision to get the hell out of the capital and head for the hills. Ahh Kandy. Kandy is considered the cultural center of Sri Lanka. It's in the hills so you can escape the sweltering heat of the plains. The train ride up was gorgeous, chugging (very slowly) through the lowland rice paddies then up through the lush mountain jungles with fantastic views! A four hour train ride cost me a whopping US$2.50. Transportation comes cheap here, too.
This is an actual train master's office and NOT a museum.

Step back in time to a first class train cabin :)


Knowing that I would be in Kandy for quite a few days later on (since it's the central hub, culturally and transporation wise, for the whole country), I left the next day. While sitting on my Kandian hotel's 19th cent. wooden victorian veranda overlooking the shrine that contains the Buddha's Tooth relic, I met a truly Mad Englishman. His name is Liam.

Liam is 21 years old, majors in the study of Asian religions and is a "4th black belt down" Tae kwon doe martial artist. About 120 pounds soaking wet, can-of-whoop-ass. Loves his women and his beer, showing off for the locals (they're fxxxing mad about martial arts!), and carrying on intellectual conversations for HOURS about religion, politics, and Ancient Asian arcitecture. He's been brilliant fun.

The Mad Englishman showing off martial arts for the kids.

The morning after we met we decided to head off to the plains of the ancient cities to the north. I will try to convey some of the truly amazing sites we've seen, but I'm afraid I won't do them justice.

Our first stop was Aluvihara. These ancient monastic caves are the location of where the Buddhist tradition was transfered from oral to Pali in the 1st century BC. 2000 years later the British came along and torched the entire amassed library.



We passed through more impressive sites such as Nalanda and Dambulla before arriving at Sigiriya. This bit of real estate features a massive rock, about 300 meters high, soaring up in the middle of the plains, a bit like New Mexico if you've ever been...At the base and on top were incredible works assembled by monks and kings over the past 1500 years. To get to the top of the rock you have to climb steps carved from the rock, passing between two massive lion paws and up through what had once been the lions mouth! (Im pretty sure this site may have been featured in the show the great race, ooh how embarassing of me...) The views of the ancient water works and countryside were spectacular!

In this ancient Buddhist monastery, intricate carving is found only on the toilets!
The next day we rode bicycles around the ancient city of Pollonaruwa then onto to the oldest Sri Lankan Capital Anurhadapura. Along the way we passed through a strict nature reserve finding the ancient monestary of Ritigali. This was one of my most favorite parts of the journey so far...climbing, trekking through jungle and "discovering" ancient monuments...very Indiana Jones! We ended that particular day with a quick stop at yet another sacred site, (Im tired just reading this!) called Mihintale, this is where the famous King Ashoka's son, Mahinda, converted the King of Sri Lanka to Buddhism.

Liam practicing martial arts in the jungle ruins.

This morning I have just returned to Kandy from Anurhadapura. Quite tired and ready for some relaxation (huh! will see...you know me!)

I's still savoring the quiet time I manage to make for myself under the Sri Maha Bodhi Tree. This is the original sappling that the daughter of King Ashoka, Sangamitta, brought to Sri Lanka over two thousand years ago. When the original Bodhi tree that the Buddha found enlightenment under at Bodhgaya died, they were able to take a cutting from this tree back to its original "birthplace" (remember Bodhgaya from my India travel journals...?)

The one thing that was a bit odd, was that in order to "protect" the tree the Singhalese have set up a military base AROUND the tree...hmmm a bit odd that such a powerful symbol of peace and enlightenment would be surrounded by blockades and machine guns...

what do I know...

love ya!
paul

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